Mini-Hot Dogs With Brown Sauce Boost London’s W8
Mini-Hot Dogs With Brown Sauce Boost London’s W8
| Sometimes, a dish may stop you in your tracks for the right reasons: cutting through the small talk, pulling your wandering eye back to the plate and causing an involuntary movement that returns wine glass to table. Game consomme with bacon cream and a small game hot dog –a starter at Philip Howard’s informal new west London venue, Kitchen W8 — take a bow. (The kitchen is headed by Mark Kempson of the Vineyard at Stockcross, so he should take one, too.) The consomme comes in a mug, and I confess I’ve asked the restaurant what’s in it, rather than just identifying through taste the grouse, venison, pheasant and mallard that have gone into it. It’s topped with thick and creamy bacon foam. The texture is like an old-fashioned Irish coffee. It’s richly flavored and comforting on a cold day and the gourmet mini-hot dog served on the plate alongside the mug may raise a smile. It’s venison, hare and pork and comes with a sweet-and- sour brown sauce with onions, spices, malt vinegar and beer. I’m not sure where I last had so much pleasure for 8 pounds ($13) but it was probably late at night somewhere exotic in Asia, rather than at a smart London neighborhood restaurant. Howard is best known for his fabulous food at the Square, which holds two Michelin stars and attracts a corporate crowd. His business partner here is the restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas. Crab Ravioli The seasonal modern European menu employs mainly British ingredients and is full of reasonably priced tempting dishes, with eight of the nine starters costing less than 10 pounds, 12 of the 13 mains costing less than 20 pounds and all of the desserts at 6.50 pounds. The top-priced dishes are ravioli of crab & red mullet with squid, cuttlefish, octopus and lemon (10.50 pounds); and fillet steak with red-wine butter at 12 pounds. Citrus Crunch Among the desserts, the rice pudding comes awash with Pedro Ximinez sherry — which is a good thing — and the passion fruit & lime mess with Brillat-Savarin cream comes in a glass: light and citrussy with a satisfying crunch. Kitchen W8, 11-13 Abingdon Road, London, W8 6AH. Tel. +44- 20-7937-0120 or click onhttp://www.kitchenw8.com/. The Bloomberg Questions Cost? The lunch and early dinner menu is 19.50 pounds. powered by Five Star Rating |







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